Mikki Kirby
Special Contributor

Deli offers a taste of the Big Apple
For 20 years, visitors have come for Russian, Jewish fare -- and found a home.

North Dallas -- At the Deli News, the waiters bustle about. They are blunt in telling patrons at the noisy restaurant to take their seats, or let someone else have them.

At the same time, waiters pull up an open seat and carryon conversations with their regular customers. And diners rarely leave without getting at least one "How you doing?"

For 20 years, customers and employees have called the Deli News their home away from home.

"Coming here, you get a little piece of New York," said owner Michael Adarnovsky. "But it's different. People here are so friendly. This city changes you."

Mr. Adarnovsky was on his way to California from New York in 1987 when his car broke down in Dallas. He liked the area so much, he sent for his family and opened a restaurant that same year.

After a stint co-owning a five star restaurant in downtown Dallas, Mr. Adarnovsky set out on his own. He said he wanted to get back to what he loves.

Behind the counter at the Deli News, the chalkboard menu reads like those of New York delicatessens, where Mr. Adarnovsky gained his experience. The restaurant offers homemade gefilte fish, matzo ball soup, chopped liver, potato latkes and franks. There is even a sandwich called "My Bubby Loves You."

While some customers come for the Russian and Jewish menu items, some for the atmosphere.

"First thing we do every morning is check the obituaries to make sure every one is going to show!" Mr. Weinstein said with a laugh. "We come here becanse get back to our roots. It feels like home."

Mr. Weinstein and his friends are part of a colorful cast of regulars. Many are transplants from New York and other northern states.

Mr. Adarnovsky said, that like his employees, regular customers are treated like family some from the first day they dine at the restaurant.

"When people come here, they are comfortable," he said. "We have customers whose children have grown up here. Now they are bringing their own children."

Rod Reily has worked off and on for the Adarnovskys for 18 years. He left the restaurant business a couple of times to pursue other work opportunities, but he returned to the comfort of the Deli News.

"There's no place quite like it," he said.

Mikki Kirby is a Dallas freelance writer.